A chainsaw consists simply of a power source, a guide bar and a cutting chain. Today's chainsaws come in cordless and electric models as well as gas units. And they're not just logging tools anymore. Many homeowners use chainsaws to cut down unwanted trees, prune large limbs and prepare firewood to heat their homes through the winter. Also, some artists use chainsaws with specially designed blades to produce chainsaw art.

Many homeowners prefer gas chainsaws. Gas saws provide the most power, can be used for the biggest jobs and are completely portable. A two-cycle engine that requires a mix of gas and oil for fuel is the heart of a gas chainsaw. Gas models can be fitted with bars of several lengths. They usually feature good bar-oiling systems. Gas chainsaws are generally more expensive and noisier than electric models, but they get the job done more quickly with their extra power.

Electric chainsaws, however, continue to grow in demand and can satisfy the needs of many homeowners who want to accomplish light cutting chores within 100 feet of an electrical outlet. The plug-and-go convenience and low maintenance of these models attract lots of users. Manufacturers suggest using a heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension cord no longer than 100 feet. The cord should be 18-gauge for a 25-foot cord, 16-gauge for a 50-food cord, and 10-gauge for a 10-foot cord. And electric chainsaws don't require refueling with a messy oil and gas mix.

Portable cordless chainsaws provide the least cutting power and should be chosen only for the lightest cutting chores. They rely on a rechargeable battery for power, so cutting time is limited to the charge of the battery. And it may take many hours to recharge a battery.

Newer chainsaw models tout more safety features, easy-starting engines and reduced emissions. Anti-kickback features are now available on more models than ever. Manufacturers continue to make gas engines easier to start, some by using the recoil of the starter rope to help with the next start. And emissions regulations mean cleaner running internal combustion engines.

Many chainsaws carry two-year limited warranties on parts and labor; although, some chainsaws carry just one-year warranties.

Five Key Questions You Should Answer Before You Shop
What do you plan to cut?
If you expect to cut hardwoods, take down big trees and cut large trunks into firewood lengths, you will need a powerful gas chainsaw. You'll need a heavy-duty engine and long bar (18 inches or more) for felling large trees. If you're cutting smaller trees and firewood, you'll want an engine in the 38 cc range or a hefty electric model and a bar longer than the diameter of the trees that you plan to fell. If you want to cut tree limbs and perform other smaller chores, a 33 cc engine or good electric motor and 12- to 14-inch bar will do the job. If you have minimal chores for a chainsaw, take a look at the cordless models.

How much do you plan to cut?
If you need to clear your property of several large trees, you'll be at it for many hours and many days. You'll want the portability and power of a big residential gas model with a long bar. Note that any bar length longer than 20 inches is designed for professional use. If your cutting needs are more modest, perhaps cutting up firewood each season, a smaller gas or good electric saw will fill your needs. And if you simply want to prune off a few small tree branches, or even cut small firewood, check out the cordless chainsaws. Remember that your work time will be limited to the duration of the battery charge on these models.

Is portability a factor in your decision?
Many homeowners like to plug into an electrical outlet and start work. Unfortunately, this won't be possible with an electric unit if you don't have an electrical outlet within 100 feet of your work site. Real portability requires either a cordless or gas engine chainsaw.

How long should the bar be?
Here are some guidelines for choosing the appropriate-length bar that you'll need on your new saw. If you're an occasional and light-duty user, you can get good results from a 12- to 14-inch bar. For general-purpose homeowner use, look for a 16-inch bar. If you have large jobs, perhaps around a rural home, try out an 18-inch bar. And if you plan to do frequent heavy-duty, large-diameter cutting, you'll probably want a 20-inch blade. Make sure the engine or motor is sufficient for the bar length that you choose.

How much should you pay?
Gas chainsaws generally carry higher price tags than do electric models. And the more power you require, the higher the price will be. You can choose from several good around-the-yard chainsaws for less than $150, some even less than $100. Good gas units go up from there to $350 or more. You'll want to project how much you'll use a chainsaw and whether a more powerful and costly model will save you time.

How to Shop
Once you have a good idea of whether you want an electric, gas or cordless chainsaw and what length bar will best fit your needs, you can consider several other factors, such as safety features, in your purchase.

One of the major safety concerns while using a chainsaw is kickback; kickback is the quick up and back motion of a chainsaw, usually caused when the unprotected nose of a chainsaw touches something accidentally, such as a log or branch. Some models have a bar-tip guard, which is a steel cover for the nose of the bar to prevent such contact. An anti-kickback or reduced-kickback bar has a narrow nose that also helps eliminate contact with the tip of the bar.

More safety features are worth their cost are a case or sheath that helps protect you from the saw's sharp teeth when you are transporting it and a chain brake that stops the chain almost instantly if necessary.

Several other features help make a chainsaw easier and/or more comfortable to operate. An anti-vibration system really can reduce vibration and the resulting operator fatigue -- a real plus if you plan to use the saw for extended periods of time. An automatic chain-oiler will relieve you of the need to remember to depress the plunger that releases oil onto the chain. And tool-free chain adjustment relies on a wheel-and-crank mechanism that you operate by hand to lock and unlock the bar so that you can adjust chain tension without a screwdriver or wrench. This is a neat and handy feature, but it is not a necessity.

You will want a well-balanced saw. The only way to tell what's comfortable for you is to handle several models and compare them. Try a slim saw with a high center of gravity for good balance.

Finally, you will need to consider both the manufacturer and the retailer, especially if you think you want a gas engine chainsaw. A gas engine saw will require regular service by a technician, so make sure your retailer is authorized to service your purchase. And always read the instruction manual and follow safety guidelines before using your new chainsaw.

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Prepare Yourself
A safe way to prepare yourself for operating a chain saw is to read the operator's manual and obtain training from someone who is experienced with chain saws. It is very important to become familiar with the recommended safe operational procedures before attempting to work with a chain saw. You could learn the safety information from experience alone but that may have a very high price -- mishap and injury -- and probably isn't worth it.

Be sure that you are in top physical and mental condition when operating dangerous machinery. Medications, alcohol, and similar influencing factors can cause you to be a hazard to yourself and others when working with chain saws. Your chances of injury become much less when you are alert, well-rested, and healthy.

Equip yourself with protective clothing and equipment (Figure 1). Safety goggles, hearing protection, steel-toed shoes, hard hat, gloves, and close-fitting clothing are all advisable when chain saw work is to be done. Chaps are available that are chain saw resistant. They are designed to protect the left side of your leg, where most chain saw injuries occur.

Saw Selection
There are three sizes of chain saws to choose from based upon the type of work. Lightweight saws have an 8 to 12 inch guide bar and are best for light work, cutting small branches, and felling very small trees (6 to 10 inch diameter at the cut). Midweight saws are equipped with a 14 to 20 inch guide bar and are excellent for frequent log cutting and felling of small trees (12 to 18 inch diameter at the cut). Heavy weight chain saws have a guide bar more than 20 inches long and are for professional use, not the average consumer. So, consider the type of work you have to do and select the saw accordingly.

Prepare The Saw
Preventive maintenance always pays off with chain saws. Properly sharpened teeth will cut quickly, smoothly and more safely. Check the chain tension and lubrication system for proper function.

A clean air filter, good sparkplug, and effective muffler will make for a better running engine, making your work easier and safer. Follow the manufacturer's advice in the operator's manual when making adjustments to the chain or engine.
Be sure to wear gloves or cover the chain with a heavy rag when sharpening the saw teeth.The newly sharpened teeth will easily inflict injury. File or grind according to instructions for best performance.

Proper chain tension helps to ensure long chain life and safer cutting. A chain that is too loose will tend to derail and whip about dangerously. On the other hand, a chain which is too tight will bind and wear prematurely. All chains stretch with use and frequently need checking and readjusting. Good lubrication helps to prolong chain life and maintain tension adjustment. Check the oil often and refill according to instructions. Be sure to use the correct bar oil.

Starting and Operating Techniques
Always use both hands when starting a chain saw, one to hold the saw and the other to pull the starter rope. Some chain saws can also be held down with a foot while starting Check the owner's manual for additional starting information. Grip the top handle of the saw firmly and pull the starter rope quickly (Figure 2). It is not a safe practice to start a chain saw while holding it in mid-air with one hand. Always start it on the ground on a stable surface.

Always use both hands to control the chain saw. Cutting a tree or limb while you have only one hand controlling the saw is very dangerous. Never force a chain saw through a cut, if it is properly sharpened and adjusted it will cut, almost by itself. Keep in mind that the hardness of the wood will have a major effect on how quickly it cuts.

Start chain saw engine by setting saw on firm ground with chain out of gear and free of obstacles, placing right foot in loop of rear handle, pressing left hand down on upper handle and pulling starter rope straight up with right hand.

Felling The Tree
There are many things to do and consider before starting to fell a tree. Examine the tree; which way does it lean and how is it weighted? This has a lot to do with the direction it will fall. Is that area clear of people, power and utility lines, or anything that would be hit? Clear the area of people, vehicles, branches and debris.

If an electric power line is in the vicinity of the tree, don't attempt to work on the tree unless you are absolutely certain that it will not interfere with the electric line. If the tree must be removed and you suspect there will be a problem, call the power supplier, they have the expertise to do it safely.

Will the wind have an effect on how and where the tree will fall? What about other trees? A very dangerous hazard is made when the cut tree entangles with another and does not fall completely. Determine the direction of fall carefully as well as an escape route. Don't wait until the tree is falling to decide which way you should move to avoid being hit.

Always plan an escape route to a safe location from where you are working. Your path of retreat should be along a line approximately 45 degrees from the direction of fall of the tree. This is most important when cutting (felling) trees. Select a place to set the chain saw; it is never recommended to run with a chain saw in your hand, operating or not. Turn off the chain saw and set it down; it is replaceable -- you are not.

Plan the cuts carefully. Smaller trees (up to a 6 inch diameter) may be cut clear through with one pass. Larger trees may require a series of cuts.

Start with a 45 degree notch on the side that the tree will fall towards. Cut the bottom of the notch first, about one third of the way through the diameter. The second cut is made at a 45 degree angle that will meet the depth of the first cut. The felling cut should be made from the opposite side, about 2 inches higher than the floor of the notch. Do not cut all the way through but leave a hinge that will keep the tree from kicking back and upward as it falls. The hinge will be about 1/8 to 1/6 of the diameter where you are cutting but it may vary depending on when the tree starts to fall.

When the tree starts to fall, it is time to shut off the chain saw, set it down safely (don't throw it), and leave on your planned escape route. Do not return to the site until the tree is down and no longer moving. If the tree should roll, let it; one person cannot stop or control a moving tree.

If a tree happens to be so well balanced that it does not fall after a felling cut has been made, two wedges can be used to start the fall and influence its direction. Always use two wedges and a sledge that has a face 1/3 larger than the face of the wedge.
Plastic wedges are safer than metal since they will not damage the saw teeth or chain. Always remove the chain saw when wedges are being driven into the cut. Strike the wedge carefully since a careless blow may cause the wedge to pop out of the cut and allow the tree to fall backward, on you.

Never use an axe as the wedge or driver; the head of the axe may shatter and you could be injured by pieces of it. If cutting must be continued, insert the chain saw into the cut very carefully since the conditions are extremely dangerous.

Limbing The Tree
Be sure that the fallen tree is stable and will not move as you work. Examine the situation at every limb to be removed. Be certain that the limb will not bind against the saw. Cut on the opposite side of the tree trunk whenever possible, this keeps the trunk between you and the saw Never stand on the downhill side when removing limbs. Always keep in mind that the tree trunk may roll as limbs are removed. Watch for limbs that may spring out when they are cut due to the released tension. These limbs can cause injury.
Whenever possible, keep the tree limb or similar barrier between yourself and the saw blade.

Larger limbs may require more than one cut to be removed safely. Plan the cuts so that there will be no binding. Remember that stored energy can cause a cut to pinch the blade and immobilize your saw. Wedges can be used as previously mentioned. Always plan an escape route when removing large limbs since they may roll when they become free of the tree trunk.

When cutting large limbs and the trunk of the tree into convenient lengths (bucking), be sure the trunk is supported along its entire length and will not roll. Block or wedge the trunk in place, if needed. Cut downward from the top of the trunk (overbuck) about one-third of the diameter and then roll it over to make final cuts.

Wedges can be used to keep the cut open if the log cannot be rolled over. They must be driven with care so they will not come into contact with the chain saw. Even though this should prevent pinching, always be alert to the situation.
If the limb or tree trunk is supported by both ends, cut downward one-third of the way and then finish by cutting upward from the underside to meet the first cut. Be careful to keep the saw out of the dirt, the teeth will throw debris and be dulled, and wear on the chain will be increased.

As limbs become smaller in the cutting process, a saw buck will become handy. It will hold the small logs or limbs at a more comfortable height and prevent them from rolling as they are cut. Some saw bucks can be made collap-sable for convenient transporting.

Kick Back Safety Tips
Kickback of a chainsaw is when the teeth on the chain catch on something as they rotate around the tip of the blade. The teeth may have enough force to cause the blade to kick back violently toward you, hence the term "kickback." Three situations that can cause kickback:
• when the nose of the blade strikes another object.
• starting a bore cut improperly.
• when the blade nose or tip catches the bottom or side of a saw cut during reinsertion.
The best defense against kickback is to keep the tip guard on the chain saw. However this does limit what you can do with the tool. Some kickback control can be maintained by keeping a firm hold on the saw and using a saw which has a chain-brake or kickback guard.

Always be watchful for blade-pinching situations and plan accordingly. Cut branches at the base of the blade, don't saw with the tip of the blade. Use a high chain speed when reinserting the blade in a cut or removing it from a cut. Keep the saw teeth sharp so they will cut; dull teeth are more likely to cause a kickback. Always cut below shoulder height, otherwise the saw is difficult to control and is too close to your face.

Key Safety Tips
• Always avoid making cuts with the saw between your legs, always cut with the saw to the outside of your legs.
• Don't stand on a log and saw between your feet.
• Always stand to one side of the limb you are to cut, never straddle it.
• Always keep in mind where the chain will go if it breaks, never position yourself or other people in line with the chain.
• Keep the chain out of the dirt, debris will fly, the teeth will be dulled and the chain life shortened considerably.

Transport and Storage of the Chain Saw
The chain saw should be transported in a level position with the gas cap up. Tipping will cause spillage of gasoline, a fire hazard. Do not carry the saw in the passenger area of a vehicle, it is a dangerous thing to have flying around in a vehicle accident. The saw should be transported in a case but if one is not available then keep the bar in a chain guard.

Storage of the chain saw requires draining the fuel system. In a safe, ventilated area, pour the fuel from the fuel tank into an appropriate container. After emptying the tank run the engine at idle until it stops, this removes any gasoline from the carburetor and fuel lines. Remove the chain and store it in a container of oil to prevent rust. Refer to the owner's manual for additional instructions on proper storage preparations. Keep in a dry place and out of the reach of children.

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Mix Gas Correctly
Keeping the right kind of gas in your chain saw is one of the most important ways to take care of the machine. When you refuel, use regular gas with a mixture of 1-40 oil. Never use unleaded gas, which is for larger engines. Mix your gas and oil to the right combination in a clean container. Any impurities in the gas will cause the engine to malfunction.

Check the Spark Plug
Each time you add more gas to the chainsaw, also check the sparkplug to make sure that there is not any oil or gas coating the plug. If there is, replace the spark plug with a clean one. You can set the other spark plug aside and use again later.

Clean Air Filter Periodically
If you use your chain saw a lot throughout the year, clean your air filter at least once every couple of weeks. This will keep it clean and free of any wood chips, dirt or debris. The air cleaner is housed under the carburetor and is easily removed with a few screws. Take it out and set it in water with a mild detergent. Let it soak until the grime can be easily removed. Rinse it thoroughly and let dry completely before putting it back on.

Always Check Bar Oil
Whenever you add more gas, you should always add more bar oil, also called chain oil. Keep the reservoir filled up to make sure the chain moves freely and doesn't stick when in the middle of a piece of wood.

Keep Chain Sharpened
The wood, dirt and heat generated from cutting wood quickly causes the chain to become dull. Keeping your chain sharp makes cutting a lot easier and safer. Hold a round file at a 35 degree angle, and file from the inside out. Use about 4 file strokes per tooth with a smooth, strong stroke. Repeat this procedure with each tooth on the chain.
Keep your chain saw working for years to come by keeping it in top condition. These tips will help you do that.

Electric chainsaws require access to an electrical power source and are typically used for cutting small trees and for light duty. Only gas powered saws with less than 3.8 cubic inches of engine displacement are intended for non-professional use.

Basic Instructions for Safe Operation

Remembering a few basic rules while operating a chainsaw greatly reduces the risk of accidents.

• Remove any obstacles that might interfere with the saw blade while making a cut.
• To start the saw, place one foot on the rear hand guard and hold it firmly on the ground.
• Hold the top handle with one hand and use the other hand to pull the cord. Keep both hands on the handles while cutting and do not cut any material directly overhead.
• Do not begin a cut with the tip of the blade nose, and do not allow the blade to come in contact with any object other than that which is being cut. Either occurrence can result in kickback. Most modern chainsaws are equipped with a safety feature called the 'chain brake' that will instantly bring the chain to a complete stop at the first sign of a kickback.
• Wearing proper clothing and protective gear is standard practice for professional loggers and is highly recommended for the inexperienced operator. Safety equipment includes a hard hat, safety goggles, work gloves and ear protection.

Safety through Proper Maintenance

A properly maintained chainsaw will result in safe and easy operation and will extend the life of the saw.

• Check to make sure that the chain is never installed backwards.
• If you need to apply excessive pressure on the saw while cutting, it could be that the teeth need sharpening.
• Allow for a little slack in the chain. Consult the owner’s manual and adjust the tension according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Refill the oil tank regularly. The bar and chain must be kept lubricated to function properly. If possible, use lubricants made specifically for chainsaws. You can also use SAE 30 in the summer and SAE 10 in the winter.
• Check that all handles are securely fastened and all nuts and bolts are tightened. Also, check that safety features like the chain brake are in good operating condition.

Consult the owner’s manual for maintenance instructions and have needed repairs done by a qualified service technician.

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The MS 310 sports a powerful 59cc (3.6 cu. In) engine that puts out a respectable 4.0 BHP. With the power head weighing in at 13.0 lbs. it has a good power to weight ratio. The manufacturer recommends a bar length of 16" to 20" but many people have put on larger bars with some success.

Stihl is an industry leader in quality. They are ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 certified. "This means they meet rigid international manufacturing, environmental and quality standards". Stihl has been the number one selling brand of chainsaw for many years, and quality is the reason. The quality of service is also outstanding. Stihl sells its chainsaws through independent dealers, not big box retailers. This means you can rest assured you are buying a chainsaw from the people who will actually be servicing it. They also have hands on experience with their product and can guide you in deciding which chainsaw is right for you.

The Stihl Ms 310 has state of the art features that will increase your firewood cutting efficiency.
First are the toolless fuel and oil caps. They have a flip-up top that makes them easy to grasp to open and close. The caps are also bayonet type without having to screw then on and off, just a push and twist and you are done. The flip tops felt a little flimsy to me and I can envision myself breaking one off. It took me a few times of filling the saw to get used to the bayonet caps. Twice I thought I had the oil cap secured but it popped off dumping the oil.

The next feature is the side-adjust chain tensioner. This is a screw slot between the two chain nuts that gives a quick, easy way to adjust the chain. Some of the other models have a Quick chain adjuster that is even easier to use, but it is not offered on the MS310. (yes I lost one of the bar nuts right away LOL but they gave me a new one free)
The last feature is the Intellicarb compensating carburetor." Measures air on clean side of air filter and adjusts metering diaphragm in carburetor". What this does is changes your air mixture as your air filter begins to plug up and allows the saw to continue to run on the same air fuel mixture for even power output. The air intake also has a setting for warm and cold weather to keep it running in top shape no matter your conditions.

The power, quality and features available on the Stihl MS 310 make it a top choice for the firewood cutter who wants to get the most for his money.

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