One of the most important things you can do for good lawn maintenance is to mow your grass properly. While this may seem like a no brainer, there are things you can do to improve the quality and appearance of your lawn.

Lawn Shouldn't Be Too Short
If you want to keep lawn maintenance to a minimum, set your mower so that it cuts grass 3 inches high. Cutting grass too low can make it more susceptible to drought, insects, and weeds. That's because the root system will be much smaller, leaving room for weeds to spread. A lawn that is too short can also lose more water through the soil. Keep the blades of your mower sharp because grass cut with dull blades may dry out quicker.

When to Cut
During the warmest weather you probably only need to mow your lawn a couple times a month. In the spring grass may need cutting at least once a week. Grass should be cut before it grows as high as 4.5 inches. Avoid overwatering your lawn to cut down on growth. If you use a professional lawn maintenance company, they may be able to use growth retardants. Fertilizing grass in the summer or fall instead of spring can also slow growth.

Leave Lawn Clippings
You don't have to spend a lot of time bagging grass clippings. You can leave grass clippings to help soil get more nutrients. The clippings also can help your lawn retain water and cut down on the need for fertilizer. Leaving clippings can also cut the amount of time you spend on lawn maintenance by 30 to 35 percent.

Sources:
Cornell University
Passaic County Office of Natural Resource Programs

If you use a lawn service, insist that they use an edger, not a trimmer, to edge your lawn. If you cut your own grass and don't own an edger, use a straight-edge spade to cut a defined edge where your lawn meets the sidewalk or driveway at the beginning of the season, and redefine it every month or so. When trimming, hold the trimmer at an angle, and make sure that at the lower edge, the trimmer string is hitting the top edge of the sidewalk or driveway. This can protect the grass and keep dirt from getting kicked up.

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Mow High
Different lawn types thrive at different heights. For example, Bermuda looks great around an inch, Kentucky bluegrass does better around two to three inches. Do some research and find out what lawn mowing height range is best for your lawn, then mow at the higher end of the range. Longer grass shades out weeds and gives the lawn more leaf surface to produce food. Set your mower high, and you and your lawn will be happier.

Sharpen Those Mower Blades
Sharp lawn mower blades mean a cleaner cut, which means a healthier lawn. Dull mower blades can tear grass, resulting in ragged edges that can leave your lawn vulnerable to disease. Take your mower blades to a hardware or garden store for regular sharpening, and keep extra blades on hand.

Follow the 1/3 Rule
If you've let your lawn mowing slide a little--maybe you've been on vacation, maybe you just didn't feel like pushing the mower last week--it can be tempting to lop off all that extra growth and get your lawn right back to the height you prefer. But that's a big mistake. Cut off too much of the leaf blade at once, and your lawn will suffer. The secret all garden pros know--never cut more than one third of the length at a time. It may take a week or two of gradual cutting to get the lawn back where you want it to be, but slow and steady is the way to go.

Leave Lawn Clippings
You don't have to spend a lot of time bagging grass clippings. You can leave grass clippings to help soil get more nutrients. The clippings also can help your lawn retain water and cut down on the need for fertilizer. Leaving clippings can also cut the amount of time you spend on lawn maintenance by 30 to 35 percent.

If you live in an area where regular snowfall is normal, then you are going to want to make sure that your winter law care strategy involves keeping your grass free of clutter and debris before the first snow should fall. Proper lawn maintenance in preparation for the first winter snow involves removing sticks, raking away the leaves and disposing of any other debris that should not be on your yard, before they end up buried beneath the snow.

Even if you are not exactly expending a great deal of snowfall, it is still vital that you make sure that your grass is free to breathe rather than left buried beneath piles of leaves, sticks and other rubbish. This rubbish can interfere with the grass needing to receive proper air, proper nutrients and proper moisture which is why it is so important that you clean up your yard before the first snowfall. Your grass may not be growing during this period of time, but if left buried for too long, it can still end up dying during the winter season.

Many people make the mistake of thinking that the summer is the most important season when it comes to controlling and preventing the growth of weeds. The opposite, however, is actually true because weed control is most important during the winter season. Weeds actually grow much more quickly during the winter than your grass can. If the weeds are allowed to grow without any control, your lawn may be dead by the time the spring runs around.

Because your lawn will be growing so slowly during the fall and winter season, it is rather simple to find the weeds that are growing during this time. All you have to do is make sure that you pay attention to your grass during these months, pulling weeds or applying weed killer as needed so that the weeds do not overrun the lawn, ruining your landscaping during the colder season.

If you plan on planting winter grass varieties like rye grass, then these will have the best chance of thriving when planted in October, which is the best time for them to take root. Make sure that your newly planted grass seeds get plenty of water even when the weather is chilly outside.

Adding general organic soil amendments, such as compost and other organic matter, to your gardens and flower beds in the fall or spring prevents soil compaction and replenishes nutrients used by the previous year’s plantings. What’s more, Fall and Spring cleanup projects, lawn mowing and leaf raking, provide an abundance of free organic material that is ideal for use in organic soil improvements. Your gardens will thrive with a boost from organic amendments at either time of year (or both!).

Periodic organic soil improvements are needed to continuously meet your garden’s demands for nutrients. Without adequate soil nutrition, the health and yield of blooms, vegetables and fruits will suffer. Additionally, organic soil amendments are used to correct drainage problems and increase aeration of the soil. Improving your soil in the fall gives your garden adequate time to process and break down organics, so spring is met with a soil preparation that is balanced in both nutrition and texture. Spring organic amendments deliver new, nutrient packed organic soil at the ready for plant growth and health.

Before you begin, you first need to determine what your organic soil is lacking. The experience of the past planting season should be an indication as to whether or not drainage is an issue you need to address. If your soil was too sandy, draining too quickly and drying out your plants, use organic matter to build up the soil and help your garden and plants retain moisture in the season to come. Alternatively, clay heavy soils do not properly drain, leaving you with rotting seeds and roots in too wet soil or standing water. Cutting organic soil with sand will increase the ability of clay laden soils to drain.

Garden centers and nurseries carry a variety of soil tests that you can perform at home to determine nutritional deficiencies and levels of soil acidity. Use these tests to decide what you need to add before you proceed with amending your soil organically.

Many organics naturally occurring in your yard are ideal for building up your organic garden soil. A simple lawn mowing provides one of the best resources for organic garden soil improvement. Mow your lawn and bag or rake the shredded leaves and grass clippings to work into your soil. Not only will the grass and leaf bits break down to provide essential soil nutrients, but they will work to loosen and aerate the soil as well, increasing root health during the next Spring and Summer growing season. This will aid in soil drainage, too.

Some of the most commonly added and least expensive organic amendments for your organic garden soil are:

• compost
• sand
• manure
• lime
• peat moss
• leaf mold
• sawdust

Compost: Victory Garden author James Crockett calls compost “the caviar of organic materials” for its ability to retain moisture and provide numerous rich nutrients to organic garden soil. Composted matter has a rich, dark, crumbly consistency, somewhat coarse in texture. The nutrients in given compost is dependent upon what went into it. A soil test can be helpful in determining the nutritional composition of your compost if it is of concern to you.

Sand: Mixing sand into heavy soils helps to improve the drainage of the soil, and the loosened soil allows roots to grow. Many gardeners recommend using Contractor’s or Builder’s Sand for its natural coarseness. The grains in a Builder’s Sand are usually larger than something like a beach or play sand, helping to decrease organic soil compaction.

Manure: Composted manure is another organic amendment that is well known for the benefits it brings to your organic garden soil. Composted manure resembles a very rich, dark soil. It is easy to work into the soil, improving organic soil drainage and moisture retention. Composted manure is very high in nitrogen.

Lime: A byproduct of mining processes, lime (or limestone as it may be called) is a white, chalky powder used on organic lawns and gardens to lower soil acidity. Lime contains calcium and magnesium which reduce soil pH. Lime is now widely available in a pelletized form which is not as dusty as powdered lime and is more comfortable to work with.

Peat Moss: Peat Moss is a naturally occurring lightweight moss, grown commercially for gardening use and sold in garden centers. Peat moss acts as a sponge in the soil, dramatically improving an organic soil’s ability to retain moisture.

Leaf Mold: Leaf Mold is a mixture of composted leaves. A cost free organic amendment made from leaves raked from your yard, Leaf Mold slowly releases nitrogen and potassium into the soil. Leaf mold is another high source of these elements.

Sawdust: Sawdust or wood chips are made from chipped or ground trees, trimmings and bark. Ground wood products are helpful to improve the drainage and texture of organic garden soils. Mixing sawdust or ground wood into your organic soil gives it a light, airy texture.

Application Process

To apply amendments to organic garden soils, you will first need to loosen the soil. If the soil is too wet from periods of rain, let the soil dry for a few days as wet, heavy soils are difficult to work. For dry soil or new garden plots that have not been worked before, a thorough watering a few days ahead of time will make your job easier. Using a rototiller for large areas or a fork and spade for existing beds, break up the soil to a depth of approximately six to twelve inches (the lower range is appropriate for existing beds).

With a shovel, spread your composts and organic amendments evenly over the garden patch. Blend the organic nutrients into the soil using a gardening fork or your rototiller (if you don‘t own a rototiller, they are often available for rental through home centers). After you have thoroughly worked the materials into the garden soil, level the area with a rake.

Your organic soil is now properly replenished for the upcoming planting season. Over the course of time, the organic amendments you have added will continue to break down and build a high quality organic soil for a plentiful gardening season ahead, effecting a slow-release of nutrients that is of most use to your garden plants. If you choose, you may repeat the soil and acidity tests in the spring prior to planting, to determine if further adjustment is needed. Over the course of the spring and summer growing season, begin a pile of compost to naturally amend and replenish your organic garden soil in the fall with rich organic matter harvested from your yard and kitchen.

A lot of people already have taken their lawn mowers out of storage and given them a couple of workouts.
How did the mower perform? Is it time to buy another? If it is a gas-powered mower, are you thinking about switching to electric, or to battery power, or an old-fashioned push mower?

If it's time to buy a new lawn mower, here are some things to consider, no matter which side of the push/electric/gasoline debate you're on.
Chore or joy: Do you enjoy mowing the lawn, or does it become a chore after the first few outings? Would it be worth it to hire the neighbor's kid or to contract with a service? If you like mowing or think that the exercise, even in the dog days of August, is what the doctor ordered — wear a hat — then doing it yourself is the way to go.

Choose the right size: How big is your yard? How much is lawn and how much garden? Is the surface smooth or bumpy from stones? Are there places always in the shade or wetlands where moss, not grass, predominates? Would you have to run over tree roots? How easy would it be to mow around trees, bushes, walls, and similar obstacles? Is your lawn level or does it slope up or down? If it runs uphill, it might be easier to deal with it using a self-propelled machine.

Stow and go: The mower will have to be stored somewhere, which means finding a less-than-backbreaking way to get it in and out. You won't want to maneuver a heavy, gas-powered mower up and down the basement stairs, and you really should have a garage or a storage shed with a ramp if your lawn requires a ride-on mower. You'll also need a place to store the gasoline and oil — and you don't want to do that near the furnace.

Rear or side bag: The bag on most lawn mowers is in the rear, right underneath the handle. They hold two to three times more grass clippings than a side bag.

Don't go cheap: What you can afford to spend should be factored in along with the kind of mower you and your lawn deserve. Depending on the type, lawn mowers range from the manual-push variety at $80 to ride-on tractors that can cost up to $6,000. Typically, $300 to $700 can get you an electric, battery-powered, or gasoline-powered mower that suits most lawns.

The reel thing: If you're nostalgic, fitness-minded, or environmentally sensitive, the human-powered reel mower could be the one for you. Whether you push or a gas engine pushes for you, reel mowers use blades on a revolving cylinder to shear the blades of grass. Rotary mowers bend the grass first, then cut it. Rotary action is best for those who let their grass grow for weeks before cutting it.

Push vs. self-propelled: Regardless of which energy source powers your mower, you'll have a choice between pushing it as the engine whirs or simply guiding the mower across the lawn. As you might expect, self-propelled mowers cost more. Two desirable features on self-propelled models are a blade-brake clutch — which allows you to pause to pick up a kid's toys but lets the engine run so you won't need to restart — and a single-lever height adjustment for the proper cut.

Powered with gas: These include both push and self-propelled models, most with four-stroke engines and a cutting swath 21 or 22 inches wide. They are noisy, require regular maintenance, and, though federal rules have reduced emissions, still pollute more than others do.

It's electric: These are push-and-walk-behind mowers, with an electric motor driving a rotating blade. Corded and cordless versions start easily with the push of a button or flip of a switch, produce no exhaust, and have interchangeable blades. Mowers with cords are limited by distance from the electrical outlet, and there's always an opportunity to run over the cord. Cordless, battery-operated models are improving, but you must remember to charge the battery — typically 24 hours for a complete charge.

Weed-free lawns are the stuff of dreams and championship golf courses. In fact, when you consider the tenacity of weeds, it's a wonder any of us win the pitched battles we wage with these pesky invaders. Just one dandelion plant makes up to 15,000 seeds, each of which can survive six years in the soil—creating 15,000 more seeds when it sprouts and matures.

Synthetic herbicides are the usual response to chronic weed problems. But used unwisely, these chemical weed killers can be dangerous to people, pets and turf. And unless you get at the underlying problems that weaken lawns and favor weeds, you might have to apply herbicides frequently.

The best way to control dandelions and other weeds in your yard is to grow a thick, vigorous lawn. Dense grass crowds out weeds and blocks the sunlight their seeds need to germinate. If only a few weeds dot your lawn, changing your maintenance tactics might be all it takes to get rid of them. And if your efforts at hand-to-hand combat haven't worked, take heart. There really is a way to pull out even stubborn dandelions so they don't come back.

PLAN YOUR APPROACH
No single herbicide, weeding technique or lawn care tactic works against all weeds. How you attack the weeds in your lawn depends on which you have. Lawn weeds fall under three broad categories: unwanted grasses; grasslike plants called sedges; and broadleaf plants. Most are annuals or perennials. Annuals complete their life cycle in one season and reproduce from seeds. Perennials live several years and spread underground as well as by seed, making them harder to control.

The following guide shows examples of the different types of weeds that plague lawns throughout the country. If you're still stumped about whether yellow nutsedge or yellow woodsorrel has invaded your turf, call the extension service in your area for help from experts.
CROWDING OUT WEEDS
Most lawn weeds are opportunists that take root wherever they can find the space and catch a few rays of sunlight. These interlopers stand little chance of establishing themselves in healthy grass. That's why a sensible lawn care plan will help stop weed problems before they have a chance to start.

Fertilize enough, but not too much. Too little fertilizer can lead to sparse lawn that loses the competition with weeds. Too much helps nurture certain weeds, notably annual bluegrass, Bermuda grass and crabgrass. Strike a balance by following the application rates on the package. And use a fertilizer with a high percentage of controlled-release nitrogen, such as sulfur-coated urea, ureaform or IBDU. These provide a slow, steady nutrient supply.

The frequency and timing of your fertilizing efforts are also crucial to healthy lawns. Both vary depending on your lawn type and the length of your growing season. Most northern lawns need only one or two applications of fertilizer annually—once in fall and sometimes a second time in spring. Southern grasses might require three feedings—early to midspring just after the grass greens up, early summer and again in early fall.

Water grass infrequently and deeply. Frequent, light watering causes shallow roots and helps annual bluegrass, crabgrass, chickweed, sedges and other weed seeds germinate. If you water too little, the lawn suffers while spotted spurge, Bermuda grass, quackgrass and other weeds adapted to drier soil thrive. Instead, provide your lawn with infrequent, deep soakings. Lawns need about 1 inch of water per week. Set an empty tuna can on the lawn to determine when you have applied 1 inch of water.

Mow higher. Mowing too low weakens turf by reducing the ability of a grass leaf to produce enough nutrients. It also lets light hit the soil surface, which helps crabgrass and goosegrass seeds sprout and grow. Check with your local extension service for the recommended range of mowing heights for your grass type. Then mow at the highest level—usually between 2 and 4 inches.

Learn to read weeds. Sometimes weeds are a clue to soil or site problems. Correct them so your landscape favors lawn grasses and discourages weeds. For example, ground ivy grows best where the soil surface remains damp. It also thrives in areas too shady for good grass growth. So consider improving soil drainage by aerating—removing small cores of soil—if ground ivy is a problem. And, to allow more light to reach the surface of the soil, selectively remove tree branches in shady areas.
HAND-WEEDING
Growing a healthy lawn with proper mowing and watering can keep weeds from sprouting. Here's how to go after the weeds you have:

Hand-weeding is still the best defense on small lawns where the number of weeds isn't overwhelming. It's most effective against annual broadleaf weeds. Pulling them while they're young—before they flower and seed—is the simplest way to prevent them from spreading.

Catching perennial weeds early is crucial. Dandelions, for example, develop deep taproots that are hard to pull once they mature. Yank the entire plant, including the root—any root pieces left underground will grow new plants. If new sprouts grow, pull them repeatedly to eventually starve and kill the weed.

Weeding is easiest when the soil is moist. Tools like the dandelion digger help get at the root by probing deep into the soil. Once the weed is out, promptly reseed the bare spot; otherwise, new weeds will fill it in.

PULLING WEEDS PERMANENTLY
Perennial weeds such as dandelions should be pulled when they are young. When soil is moist, push a sharp spade or dandelion digger into the soil, angled downward toward the center of the plant, and loosen the soil around it. Use the tool to pry the weed upward while pulling it; try not to break off the roots. Once the weed and roots are out, smooth the soil, work in some compost, and patch the area with lawn seed. Keep the soil evenly moist until the grass is 1 inch high.
HERBICIDES
Use herbicides as a last resort—when nothing else works on a particular weed or when your lawn is completely overrun. And follow directions carefully. Used incorrectly, herbicides can injure or kill turf and other desirable plants.

If you use an herbicide, choose one that's labeled as safe for the type of turf you're growing and effective against the weeds you've got. The label states when and in which conditions to use the product. Some herbicides work only within a certain temperature range; others work only when applied at a specific time of year.

Herbicides fall into three major categories:

Preemergence herbicides kill germinating seeds before seedlings break through the soil. Crabgrass is the primary target. The most common preemergence herbicides are synthetic. Natural, nontoxic preemergence herbicides made from corn gluten are safer, though you might have to apply them for several seasons for them to be fully effective. Three quality products are Concern Weed Prevention Plus, WOW! and WeedzSTOP. A drawback to these and most other preemergence herbicides is that they kill germinating lawn seed. Check product labels carefully.

Postemergence herbicides kill existing weeds that are actively growing. These come in two basic forms: contact and systemic. Contact herbicides kill only the part of the plant they touch. Most act quickly and work best against annual weeds. Systemic herbicides circulate inside the plant, killing the whole thing. They're more effective than contact herbicides on perennial weeds, though repeat treatments might be needed.

You also need to choose between selective and nonselective versions of systemic herbicides. Selective herbicides kill only certain weeds, while nonselective herbicides kill any green, growing plant, whether it's a weed or not. Most broadleaf herbicides, including products like Weed-Away and Weed Warrior, are systemic and selective to kill broadleaf weeds only. They won't kill weedy grasses. Glyphosate—the active ingredient in Roundup and other products—is an example of a systemic, nonselective herbicide that kills broadleaf weeds and weedy grasses. But because it also kills turf and other desirable plants, it's safest to use it on your lawn when you want to kill an entire section and then replant it. Finale, in which the active ingredient is gluphosinate ammonium, is another nonselective used for this purpose.

When using any postemergence herbicide, don't apply them over your entire lawn, if possible. Instead, spot-treat isolated weeds or weedy patches.

Weed-and-feed products combine fertilizer and herbicides to do two jobs at once. But their promised labor savings can backfire if the recommended time for weed control doesn't coincide with the best time and rates for fertilizing. Most also pose an herbicide-overdose risk when used for follow-up fertilizing. WOW Plus!, corn gluten with added organic fertilizer, is the safest weed-and-feed.

Whichever herbicide you use, follow the directions. Address the causes of weeds at the same time to keep new ones from growing. And reseed the bare spots left by dead weeds. The bottom line in the war against weeds: Care for your lawn and apply only what it needs—and only when necessary.

8 COMMON WEEDS
Crabgrass is an annual with branching, spreading stems. Its coarse, blue-green to purplish leaf blades can be smooth or hairy, depending on the species. Flower heads with several fingerlike spikes rise from narrow stems.

Crabgrass thrives in lawns mowed shorter than 2 inches, underfed lawns, and those watered frequently and lightly. Thick, deeply irrigated turf is the best control. Dig crabgrass before it seeds. Preemergence crabgrass herbicides are available; apply in spring before soil temperature reaches a steady 60 degrees F.

Dandelion is a broadleaf perennial recognized by bright-yellow flowers and a large, flat rosette of leaves rising from a long, fleshy taproot. Dandelions favor thin turf.

Pull or dig out young plants before they go to seed. Then cut any regrowth from leftover root pieces. You can also spot-treat weeds with a selective broadleaf weed killer.

White clover is a broadleaf perennial that used to be included in grass seed mixes. Also called white Dutch clover, it's distinguished by three-lobed leaves with a crescent-shaped white band. The plant spreads by creeping stems and thrives in sparse, undernourished turf with excessive moisture.

Control it by watering well, applying nitrogen fertilizer and avoiding excessive applications of phosphorus. Spot-treat with a selective broadleaf weed killer; a second treatment often is needed.
Ground ivy is a broadleaf perennial with square stems and bright-green rounded leaves with scalloped edges. It reproduces by seed and creeping stems that root as they touch the ground.

Also called creeping Charlie, it prefers damp soil and shade. Improve drainage and water less. Pull stems and roots of young plants. Spot-treat with a broadleaf postemergence herbicide.

Yellow woodsorrel is a broadleaf perennial, although it might act as an annual in some regions. Also known as oxalis, it has cloverlike leaves and yellow flowers, each with five petals. Plants spread by roots and seed.

This weed is difficult to control, and does best in thin turf watered frequently and lightly. Water thoroughly and fertilize properly. Dig out small plants or spot-treat isolated ones with a postemergence weed killer. Prevent new weeds with a preemergence herbicide with oxalis on the label.

Quackgrass is a perennial grass with flat light-green to blue-green leaves. It spreads by seeds and aggressive underground stems, called rhizomes.

Thoroughly dig out roots and pointed rhizomes—remaining pieces regenerate new plants. Spot-treat with a nonselective weed killer.

Yellow nutsedge is a grasslike perennial sedge with triangular stems and 1/4-inch-wide leaves. Also called yellow nutgrass, it reproduces by seed and tubers that grow at the root tips. Tubers often persist in the soil, making established plants difficult to control.

Mow high in early to midsummer and water infrequently though thoroughly. Spot-treat with postemergence herbicides labeled for nutsedge. As with most weeds, control is easiest when plants are small.

Spotted spurge is a broadleaf annual that grows close to the ground in a fast-spreading mat. Its small leaves are green with a brown-red spot on top. Cut stems exude a milky liquid.

Spotted spurge reseeds heavily. A high-mowed, well-fertilized and vigorous lawn provides tough competition. Pull isolated plants before they seed. Spot-treat with a postemergence weed killer and use appropriate preemergence herbicides to prevent new weeds.

Some handy how-tos from the August issue of Fine Gardening magazine:

- Fix a hose: Don't throw away a leaky hose if it's a good-quality one. Fix it with a repair kit from the hardware store. The kit reattaches the two ends of the hose that remain after the punctured section is cut away. You can also buy brass and plastic fixtures to replace leaky male or female ends of the hose.

- Remove sap from your skin: Rub a dab of vegetable shortening on the pine sap.

- Stake a tomato: Drive a sturdy stake into the ground a few inches from the plant base. It should be at least 3 feet tall - taller for indeterminate tomatoes, also called vining tomatoes. Tie a soft cord or cloth from the stake to the plant stem. Don't tie the cord directly under any branches with flower buds, because the weight of the fruits may cause the stem to snap.

- Read an N-P-K label: Fertilizer packages are marked with three numbers, separated by hyphens - for example, 10-10-10 or 34-0-0. Those numbers represent the percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), the three major nutrients in the fertilizer, in that order. The N-P-K label helps you choose a fertilizer that contains what your specific plants and soil need.

- Prevent dirty fingernails: Scrape your fingernails on a bar of soap before you go out to work in the garden. The soap behind your nails will keep dirt out.